The renewed spirit of the science of pastronics

The renewed spirit of the science of pastronics

The drive of those in their 30s is contagious, and the sacrifice. A message to those who say that youth is made of glass: I say that the material is graphene, and it is hard and flexible. Oneric follows this gastronomy model, now revamped: two people, Jonathan Izquierdo and Laura Humanis, trained in restaurants with large teams who were reduced to finding their own space.

Astronomy, about which I wrote extensively at the beginning of the century, adopts a lighter camouflage than its predecessors: fewer resources and fewer investments; In return, more knowledge, more cunning, and more innocence, although it seems paradoxical.

Among the recent takeaways are Colmado 1917 and Bar Nui, Same 2024: What is micro with macro ambition. In all three cases, I mention Onirique, they are pairs. This is the only way to escape from the burdens of the hospitality industry.

I'm on the Carrer de Rabassa, in Gràcia, very close to the Fino Bar – which I have already explained, which could also be a neologism, in a double neologism – and the wooden facade with round windows is familiar to me: ¡ the first La Panxa del Bisbe by Xavi Codina! The second is very close and deserves a return visit.

So, astronomy rotates: one from 2007 gives way to one from 2024.

Jonathan is alone in the kitchen, and Laura is alone in the living room. They met at Atembo, Jordi Cruz's star restaurant where Iñaki Aldre, whom I met at Tin, was the face.

Went, from Valencia, to Nova (Ourense) and Desfrutar; She, from Barcelona, ​​is at Moments i Baló, where she was president of the chamber.

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A bare table, a matching napkin, ceramic dishes (young chefs pay tribute to ceramics), a short yet-to-be-decided wine list (I drink Palomino Fino El Muelle de Olaso 2022 and Grenache black L'Obaga 2021) and the show drink is divided into three parts: Menu of the Day (18 euros) ), the tasting menu (€38), and the menu you signed up for.

On the shelves are jars with fermentation, including mackerel garlic, according to the direction of Jarumira.

All this vortex is pushed forward by the spouses, immersed in the process of merging another pair of hands.

It seems to me that at this moment Jonathan is an unrestrained horse, and that he gets there, yes, he has a millimeter operation, yes, that he builds bold and complex dishes, yes, but he can bleed along the way and in a few months be sleepy.

Kitchen without flags: “It's our personality. I don't like to be categorized. If your size doesn't fit into the box, you have the ability to do more. A dish can have elements from Catalonia, Switzerland or Asia… although everything should To have a vegetarian point.” In general, he has to watch out for crassness, baroqueness, and confusing statements about authenticity and orthodoxy. Let me give you an example: The Caesar sauce that accompanies the whole squid (the specific point) has been mixed with squid sauce, soybeans, and kimchi, which transforms it On to something else… Korean, Thai? With this dish I discovered that cephalopods get tangled easily with peanuts.

Three times: corbena with pickled tangerines (good idea), papada, and a can of choy; Signature neck of lamb with pear in wine (and a touch of musk with citrus peel), sweet potato puree and arugula; Dark gingerbread, beer, cookie ice cream and cinnamon mousse.

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Without pretending to do more work, offering just two desserts seems meager.

In the pits, the buds, with raspberry vinegar, parmesan cream and almonds, are muddled and high on acidity.

As a good pickle, mushroom croquettes, mustard/rosemary emulsion and dried pepper.

I ate at another Oníric restaurant, now closed, where the first Alkimia was located. “It's called that because it's time to dream. This is the dream of both of us,” says Jonathan. They wake up to the stressful reality of being homeowners.

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